bmwe21.net forums

£30!? I just bought one from BMW for £6.95, bargain!

Today, mine was broken, repared as seen on pics - super tip!
(just a little bent is enough!).

Here's a trick. Take small piece of paper fold it 4 or 5 times. With the flasher engaged and blinking, slide the folded paper in the crack around the flasher and push in the flasher, helping the paper into the crack. The paper will act as a wedge and keep the damn thing in the freakin hole. It works, save your money!

yeah we know that dude, thanks for reminding us!! but we have good cars that we would rather be it fully functional.. money isnt an issue when it comes to bits like this, well for me it does as i live on the streets .....


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I decided to repair my hazard switch permanently, by remanufacturing the alloy arm that seem to be the source of all failures from a piece of 1.5mm thick stainless steel. I carefully removed the rivet then simply copied the arm shape, creating the locating and contact pins by drilling 1mm dia holes and press fitting some 1.2mm pins into the holes.

The whole job took around 1 hour but now I have a virtually bullet-proof switch.

30 quid? Sounds expensive. Dude you could have fixed it for free!

Hazardous Hazard Switch Jump:






See:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh ... p?t=683955[/img]

Mine's are broken to, bought a new one 15 euro's expinsive litle button if you ask me

So the jumper from 2 posts above is a proven Bypass from the switch?

If so, I can modify my brothers car untill the new switch arrives

Fixed mine - had been held in with a matchstick!

Took only 20mins using the write-up and pictures.

Thanks!!!

I tried to repair my switch today but the bloody thing is tricky to fix! The spring is stuck on the metal contact and I can't get it free. I have trimmed the plastic housing and tried to bend the alloy arm but the liitle brass contact inside the housing (at the bottom) gets in the way of the spring and jams? I take it the metal contact should be bent back away from the spring? What in Gods name is it for??? GRRR! I have no patience

Howtoooo... now with updated pics!

Pop the center grill in the dash out, a smaller flat head screw driver seems to help, then push the hazard switch out from the back side.





Use a pocket knife and a screwdriver to gently seperate the two halves.[/i]



seperate slowly & the inner spring will stay near by.







You can see here where the pin on the little metal arm slides in the groove on the opposite half.



This is the pin/arm closer up:



Use a pair of needle nose pliars and bend the arm in a tiny bit so that the pin/arm stay engaged with the corresponding groove.



Then reassemble the pieces and test. No more Bic pen caps stuck in there to keep it turned off...

I appreciate the write up and photos for the jumper.

My car was missing the top button on the hazard switch when I got it and just had some cardboard jammed in it. But it was causing a fuse to blow for my wipers and signals at random times, even when I was driving in heavy rain .

After the faulty hazard switch caused my stereo (triggered accessory power) to come on in the middle of the night, I pull that stupid thing out and put in the jumper. No more worries and mysterious electrical problems.

Thanks for re-uploading those pictures meister. Just done this because I've my MOT tomorrow, worked a treat. A couple of things I thought might be helpful;

The book of lies says you need to remove steering wheel/fascia and instrument cluster to remove the switch. You can just prize off the vent on top (held on with a plastic clip in each corner), remove the connecting plug and push out the switch from behind with a screwdriver.

The bit I had most trouble with was prizing the switch apart. The plastic is really soft and bends/tears quite easily. Just be really careful and patient.

Reck wrote:Thanks for re-uploading those pictures meister. Just done this because I've my MOT tomorrow, worked a treat. A couple of things I thought might be helpful;

The book of lies says you need to remove steering wheel/fascia and instrument cluster to remove the switch. You can just prize off the vent on top (held on with a plastic clip in each corner), remove the connecting plug and push out the switch from behind with a screwdriver.

The bit I had most trouble with was prizing the switch apart. The plastic is really soft and bends/tears quite easily. Just be really careful and patient.

strange, on my last one the plastic was bloody tough and took some doing! glad you fixed it. for me, it worked for about 3 months, then failed again so i replaced it and it's been fine since, touch wood.