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Yeah, so that was my problem too. I think that the 001 coil is not the 010 coil. And that replacement numbers are not always the same product. So I sourced a used one.

After some paint an stickers:





Other part of the problemen were the sparkplug caps of the cables. The new Bosch set, that I placed has the caps with the narrow holes. Only goes over the small pin of the sparkplug. But the 010 coil doesn't have the pin in the middle, you"ll need a different cap on that one. So make sure that you have the right kind of male or female cap/plug in the coil.

uwbuurman wrote: Tue Sep 03, 2024 6:57 am Yeah, so that was my problem too. I think that the 001 coil is not the 010 coil. And that replacement numbers are not always the same product. So I sourced a used one.

After some paint an stickers:





Other part of the problemen were the sparkplug caps of the cables. The new Bosch set, that I placed has the caps with the narrow holes. Only goes over the small pin of the sparkplug. But the 010 coil doesn't have the pin in the middle, you"ll need a different cap on that one. So make sure that you have the right kind of male or female cap/plug in the coil.

Ok, so I guess my coil is the new type. That means I actually can just connect the wires at the ballast in 1 same connection and then use the coil without ballast? Will the transitor box handle working without ballast, or doesn't it matter? Or do I have to use the new transistor module?
And if I get a coil with the same number as yours, I will still need new plug at the coil, since my new sparkplug set is wrong for use with that type of coil.
The old type of sparkplug wire set is not available I think to buy anymore...

No, that doesn't work. Wire harnass is different, you'll need to keep the balast.

I just cut off the wrong cap and fitted a different cap on the new cableset.

uwbuurman wrote: Tue Sep 03, 2024 4:05 pm No, that doesn't work. Wire harnass is different, you'll need to keep the balast.

I just cut off the wrong cap and fitted a different cap on the new cableset.

So I need to find an old coil on ebay then.
And there is seller in Germany that has several for sale, but won´t ship to Norway

I still don´t see why I can´t just connect the plus from transistor module that gives 12V+,(green wire) and a 12V+ from the starter 12V+, then I will get about 12V when cranking, and the coil that is stamped 12V will give enough to the sparkplugs.

The ballast is only for dropping voltage to a coil that is working with 9V, that coil should give the same amount of voltage to sparkplugs, as a coil that is 12V coil.... or?

Dit you find the vaccuum leak yet? It is hard to imagine that the spark is your only problem. Mayby a stupid question, but the rotor on de ignition is not 180 degrees of? Since 1 turn on the cam is 2 on the crank, it has happened to many of us that the crankshaft was on time, but the camshaft 180 degrees off, hence the ignition is placed, but actually also 180 degrees off.

That could be an option indeed, or a huge vacuum leak, Another thing you can try is to turn the idle screw up a bit more, that is the throttle body bypass valve, if that's closed or clogged you may have an issue as well. Starting with a slight bit of throttle will do the same btw.

uwbuurman wrote: Wed Sep 04, 2024 9:08 am Dit you find the vaccuum leak yet? It is hard to imagine that the spark is your only problem. Mayby a stupid question, but the rotor on de ignition is not 180 degrees of? Since 1 turn on the cam is 2 on the crank, it has happened to many of us that the crankshaft was on time, but the camshaft 180 degrees off, hence the ignition is placed, but actually also 180 degrees off.

Jeroen wrote: Wed Sep 04, 2024 10:04 am That could be an option indeed, or a huge vacuum leak, Another thing you can try is to turn the idle screw up a bit more, that is the throttle body bypass valve, if that's closed or clogged you may have an issue as well. Starting with a slight bit of throttle will do the same btw.

I will have to check the cam.... But that will have to wait until next week, busy with real life stuff this week

Update.....

Today we took out the radiator, timing cover, distributor, and checked the timing again, could not find any issues with the cam, crank etc.
So we put it all back, and checked that the rotor was a cylinder 1, when the cam was at ignition, and we got it on point with cylinder 1.

Then we tried to start the engine using start gas, and guess what... it started and ran for 2-3 seconds.
I forgot to put the fuel pump relay in, so it just ran on start gas

I also installed the old coil, just to see if that would help.
When I measured the ohm on the old coil vs the new coil, they had identical value, 0.8ohm.

Next is to fill up with coolant, and try to run the engine on fuel.

Startup...

https://youtu.be/bp-m_LQ71ws?si=1GwPjYnR9Fusy1yH

https://youtu.be/gWWamuJ5xZ0?si=0cBTvLJPX0oi95vA

Having some issues with the engine running rough, like it´s getting air somewhere beside where it should.
And to rich on fuel, so need to adjust the mixture... But not easy to do it all, when there is several issues to sort out.
Need to check the basic setting on the fuel distributor tomorrow, as I think it´s abit off, since I adjusted it abit when I had issues getting the engine to run...

Temp was fine, and the electric fan was running, so all good with the cooling.

Oil change tomorrow, and add some anti freeze, just had it on water today.

Well, getting even closer...

Today I wen´t back to the car, with the hope I would get the engine running properly.... but no....

I reset the fuel distributor back to basic startup setting, checked the baffle adjusted it what the manual says...
Changed the o-ring on the throttle body, air adjustment screw.

I changed the oil and filter, and tried to start the engine, no luck, it only run for a few seconds.
Then I removed all the spark plugs, and checked them, tested the spark. I get random result, cylinder 1, barely a spark. I changed it with a new sparkplug, still no luck. I swapped the distributor cap with the old I had, cylinder 1 ok, but then cyl 6 wasn´t good.
I can´t figure out what is happening, I get random sparkplug not working, or has poor spark.

Then I tried the old spark plugs that I had in the engine before rebuild... They work much better, it´s Brisk brand L17YCY.
The Bosch WR8DC+ is crap. I´ve noticed that dealers are selling Bosch WR8DC+ and W8DC, I assume the R is just for resistor to prevent radio noice?

I´m not sure what plugs to use, WR8DC+ is no good in my engine, as they give no or poor spark.

WR8DC seems to work well in most E21's. Perhaps incorrect or bad ignition coil cable, or coil itself?

Yeah, check those cables, it seems to me that you have a leak/shortage on your hands. Maybe a cut or tear in one of the cables causing sparks to jump the cable instead of through the plugs.

Jeroen wrote: Sun Sep 15, 2024 11:16 pm WR8DC seems to work well in most E21's. Perhaps incorrect or bad ignition coil cable, or coil itself?

uwbuurman wrote: Mon Sep 16, 2024 12:10 am Yeah, check those cables, it seems to me that you have a leak/shortage on your hands. Maybe a cut or tear in one of the cables causing sparks to jump the cable instead of through the plugs.

I'm using the coil ending with 010, as the new coil is "wrong" for the car. I will try the new coil again, to see if there is anything that is changing.
But the cables, they are brand new Bosch for the facelift, so they are not seperate as the old ones used to be, these new are in a PVC insulation. If one of the cables should be faulty, then I should get a constant sparkplug not working properly? I have had isusses with cyl 1 and cyl 6, and later last evening I had issuses with cyl 5.
But when I put in the old sparkplugs Brisk, all 5 cylinders sparked good, beside the cyl 6, as that had the WR8DC plug. Which makes me conclude that my ignition system doesn't like Bosch plugs, or they have some sort of fault. Before the engine was taken out of the old chassis, it ran with Brisk plugs.

Will try to use Brisk today and have a go and see what happens.

Ah oke. Take a look at the connector in de cableset, the one that goes on to the coil. In the new sets, its is a connector that goes over a pin, like the ones that go on to the sparkplugs.

But the coil has no pin and needs a connector that goes in to the larger socket of the coil. Hence (huge) chance on bad connections...

Just last week we changed it on the cableset of @manitoba aswell. He also runs the 010 coil. So get hold of a BERU VESO 105 plug, or one like it.

Https://www.winparts.nl/motordelen-toeb ... 69887.html

Installation is very simple. Just cut off the wrong connector, put the cap of the new one over the cable, screw the new plug right in the core of the cable, pop the plug in the cap and you are done.