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uwbuurman wrote: Mon Sep 16, 2024 5:41 pm Ah oke. Take a look at the connector in de cableset, the one that goes on to the coil. In the new sets, its is a connector that goes over a pin, like the ones that go on to the sparkplugs.

But the coil has no pin and needs a connector that goes in to the larger socket of the coil. Hence (huge) chance on bad connections...

Just last week we changed it on the cableset of @manitoba aswell. He also runs the 010 coil. So get hold of a BERU VESO 105 plug, or one like it.

Https://www.winparts.nl/motordelen-toeb ... 69887.html

Installation is very simple. Just cut off the wrong connector, put the cap of the new one over the cable, screw the new plug right in the core of the cable, pop the plug in the cap and you are done.

I used the old coil cable that has the right plug into the coil when trying/using the old 010 coil, so mismatch with that cable.

Report of todays testing:

I changed all the sparkplugs to Brisk, changed the coil to the new Bosch. I got the engine running. I ran the engine for about 30 mins, and then we checked the timing, with timing gun, it was abit wrong, adjusted it abit, so now we´re pretty spot on with the timing.
The only issue I got now is to control the idle speed. No matter how I adjust the idle screw on the throttle body, I can get the idle down, but once I touch the throttle pedal and rev it abit up, it drops too low, and dies. I tested with start gas, and it seems like I have minor leak through there. So I´m going to get new o-ring.
I also have a vacuum outlet left under the throttle body which I don´t is for, it´s about 15mm size outlet. I will need to block that.

Thank you very much for all help uwbuurman, but since the engine is running "ok" now with new coil and Brisk sparkplugs, I see no reason to try something else for now.

Video of idle and revs
https://youtu.be/azKh0JaRG6E?si=id7myGOVjiLy7dlc

How high should the idle speed be with 272 Shrick cam? Higher than stock idle?

Nah, with the Schrick 272° I ran about 800rpm idle. Now with the Catcams 279° it's around 950rpm

uwbuurman wrote: Mon Sep 16, 2024 9:19 pm Nah, with the Schrick 272° I ran about 800rpm idle. Now with the Catcams 279° it's around 950rpm

Ok, so I will need to get the idle way down, but first new o-ring etc to make sure I have control on the vacuum

How come the voltage on the plus to coil go from 8-9V down to 6V when the car is running?
Shouldn't the voltage be steady around 8-9V?

Look at the video here.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/5xzvXqGW ... ture=share

Today I tried to find the vacuum leaks, and I found a leak at the split that goes into the suction hood.

So I glued the part.


My friend said my idle was too low, that´s why the engine kept stalling. So we installed another taco meter to check the rpm, and he was right. So I got it up to about 800rpm and it runs ok. But I need to wait for the glue to heal and try again. To make sure my idle is ok.



My taco in the car is from facelift I think, I guess it´s either faulty or the facelift doesn´t work on pre-face? Because the idle speed in the car is about 1700rpm when the other taco is 800.
I think I might have used face lift taco instead of the pre-face when I put togeheter the instrument panel, if there is any difference at all?

Well the designs for the tachs is slightly different, but they work the same. If your readings are that far off, you might have a 4 cil tach fitted.

Jeroen wrote: Mon Sep 23, 2024 9:10 pm Well the designs for the tachs is slightly different, but they work the same. If your readings are that far off, you might have a 4 cil tach fitted.

I think the tach I have now is from facelift model, and I'm 90% sure it's a 6 cyl tach because I checked the other 2 tachs I have home, and I got a 6 cyl and a 4 cyl home. I will connect the other 6 cyl tach and see how that reponds on revs.

As I'm hopefully getting to the end with the engine. There is a stage 3 tourque on headbolts and some other degrees on the headbolts, I think it's 90 degree, but I can remeber where it's in the work manual. Anyone know the specific sequence?

Atle_323i wrote: Wed Sep 25, 2024 8:40 pm As I'm hopefully getting to the end with the engine. There is a stage 3 tourque on headbolts and some other degrees on the headbolts, I think it's 90 degree, but I can remeber where it's in the work manual. Anyone know the specific sequence?

Yes, there is
First 30nM, then wait 15 minutes,
90° and wait again 15 minutes
Another 90°

There is no stage after the engine had warmed up.

I have been searching for why I can't make the idle and co2 work good enough.
So I started with checking the return flow from fuel distributor, which needs to give 1 litre in 30 seconds.
Mine did 10,5 dl fuel in return, so above what what I need.

So next we suspected the air slide valve not working as it should. I doubted it had any fault, as this is brand new, bought a few years ago. It now apears to be NLA.
So I took it out, a pain to dismantle from under the air intake. But I got it out, so I connected it to 12V, and waited 5-10 minutes, and it closes, but not 100%. I can blow air through it even when it's closed. So I found my old one, and connected that to 12V and waited 5-10 minutes, that closes 100%, and is totally air tight, can't blow air through.

Are all new parts for BMW that bad? I feel that all new parts you buy, is not like it should. I got the a new fuel relay that also doesn't work. This is very frustrating.

We also welded in the left exhaust tail, and now I need to cut out for the right side, and weld that too.

I already see, the new unit is made in France! LOL, but yeah, there are more issues with recent reproductions. But, on several of these models there's a small nut on the opposite side of the housing, if you loosen that slightly you van adjust the gap, slightly.

On the other hand, I can hardly believe that a slight bypass causes a huge return flow, more gives me the idea the pressure regulator inside the fuel dizzy remains fully open, and then you don't have enough remaining fuel pressure for your injectors to function properly.

Jeroen wrote: Fri Oct 11, 2024 2:27 pm I already see, the new unit is made in France! LOL, but yeah, there are more issues with recent reproductions. But, on several of these models there's a small nut on the opposite side of the housing, if you loosen that slightly you van adjust the gap, slightly.

On the other hand, I can hardly believe that a slight bypass causes a huge return flow, more gives me the idea the pressure regulator inside the fuel dizzy remains fully open, and then you don't have enough remaining fuel pressure for your injectors to function properly.

By checking the return flow is about 1 litre is to verify that the pump delivers enough fuel, and that there is nothing restricting the flow of the fuel from the tank to fuel distributor.
This what K-Jet company that calibrated and restored both my WUR and fuel distributor told me to check. And the factory manual also states that the return flow should be atleast 750ml of fuel within 30 seconds. So nothing wrong with the flow in or return.

I think when the air slide doesn't work properly, it will cause problems with the entire K-jet system. After reading abit about this, everything needs to be working properly or you will end up with other issues. So I will probably try to run the engine this weekend with the old air slide valve. And I also got a rubber plug for the whole where you adjust the fuel mixture, this also need to be closed, to make the entire vacuum go through the baffle under the rubber boot.

I bought the rubber plug from https://www.deloreango.com/ they have many parts in stock for the Delorean car which also runs k-jet.

New year and hopefully this spring I will be done with the car.
It sure takes time to do the conversion, but I´m happy with the progress overall, it will be good car when done.

I´m not happy with the MTS coilovers kit I got, so I purchased BC coilovers kit that I will use instead.
I have replaced the dampers back, waiting for the spindles to be welded, so that I can replace the front dampers.
My friend have made the weld in plate for the right side exhaust cut, that has to be welded in and some paintwork too.

The height in the rear is abit high, but I will lower it when I have the front dampers in.

Nice! Looks like the rear can be a bit lower indeed, but yeah better check and decide when its on 4 wheels

Slowly getting to the finish line.
Just the welding at rear exhaus cutout left, and som painting in that area, then I should be done.

I have booked for inspection for the car late in May, so I still have som time left. I just don´t want to rush it. I still need wheel alignment etc.

Bought an old style 323i rear emblem


Tight fit with the rear spoiler


Front struts welded and testet for cracks.




Front struts painted.






Marking the cutout for exhaust, and cutting.