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when i fitted 9's on the back i had to cut the lip down and then roll it slightly. If you try and roll it as it is without cutting it, then you will find the lip is so long that it can bend back and distort the arch.

I personally dont think you will have a problem getting them wheels to fit straight on mate.

thanks for the info Nas80, if you say it will distort the arch i will grint the lip back, spot weld it up and then fold and dolly it over.
my new favorite site, apart from here, is Stance works and really like the way some cars sit close to the arches. i can always buy new lips for the back and change the backs to 9".

got some more repairs dont today,

Ran out of grindidng discs to tindy up the welds, so will need to order some more. I like the dronco ones they last a long time.
will need to be ordering seam sealer and epoxy primer soon. Some u-pol grey stripe brushable and some of the 3m in cartridges,

L29107 - 4 litres of epoxy primer
L29370 - 2 litres of this hardenener needed
00516 - optional thinner
www.metalflake.com around £58 delivered.

spec sheet looks perfect for home users with no oven and its water resistant so you can work sections at a time and forget. if you cant manage the whole car at once.
http://www.paints4u.com/pdffiles/29107.pdf
it is 2k Isocyanate so you do need breathing gear.

another nice bit arrived today, easier to replace the whole panel, than try to clean the old one.

£80 delivered.

Todays efforts, passenger wheel well plugged up, still to be ground down.

Nice progress again! Please remember to make a hole for the indicator wiring in the front wheel well again!

Thanks,
I think i may be re-routing some of the cable work to "shave" the engine bay, no filler, i like to see the panel joints swages and so on. So the indicator cable may not be back in the origional place anyhow.

PLS if Any one else has any comments/ideas good or bad please comment im all ears, Im trying to post as may pics as possible, i often read threads and they miss out a lot of details that are the most interesting.
Like the wife says, "Its the small things that count"

The best resto thread ive read was an E30 M3 from ireland, and of course Mr Sepang Bronze/Ronal E21.

Great to see another e21 getting such an extensive resto job.

Good work
Were did you get front panel from

Looks great!

No comment about the indicator wire but how are you going to get the brakelines into the engineroom?

thats a good question, what brake system you going to use?

I ended up using a brake bias pedal box - i dont know if this would be suitable for everyone though because it does require extra leg strength.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a285/ ... aa8c9f.jpg

cobbler2u wrote:Good work
Were did you get front panel from

EBAY, the guy has one left. he also has door skins, double headlight surrounds and a bew bonnet.

Peter V. wrote:Looks great!

No comment about the indicator wire but how are you going to get the brakelines into the engineroom?

Still to decide exactly on the routing, but i will prob move the hard lines inside the cabin, then back out to the wheel well fom the cabin side using solid bulkhead fittings, or i may keep them engine side and polish the cunifer and solid fit to inner wing, either way i still had a big hole to fill from the old ones.
See here: http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2103425&page=5

nas80 wrote:thats a good question, what brake system you going to use?

I ended up using a brake bias pedal box - i dont know if this would be suitable for everyone though because it does require extra leg strength.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a285/ ... aa8c9f.jpg

Something like that would be fine. What size master cylinders did you use and with what caliper combination? I do need to read a bit more on what config system i want,single master, dual master and if it will be bias box or bias valve in the cabin.