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Re: Rob and Joost E12 528 type 1 ----> 535i

Posted: Wed Dec 14, 2016 9:07 pm
by Yoozt
Peter E12 525 wrote:Nice, it's solved.

The problem with the gearstick is maybe because it's not the E12 stick but from an E28? An e12 stick has a threaded top en not with the slit in it.

We Always modify the Original E12 shifterbracket.

Can you lay in al the gears with hitting the body?
I saw that the stick is different, we still have the E12 one, of the 4 shift gearbox.
I don't think it will fix the point that the stick is too far to the right, but I recon it will not be a big issue.
How do you get the ball of? is this really necessary? or more for authenticity?

I shifted all gears, all shifted good, without hitting the hole, but not yet reverse, this because we have not yet fixed the bracket on the back to the car. No idea where I left that part of the bracket...

Re: Rob and Joost E12 528 type 1 ----> 535i

Posted: Wed Dec 14, 2016 9:45 pm
by Peter E12 525
The stick isn't the issue but it wil not fit your E12 gearshift knob,

de black gearshift holding plate maybe different. The black plate holding the gearshift which is attached to the box.

The gearshift stick is held in place bij a circlip at the top of the ball.

If it shifts good in al gears without hitting the body then I guess its good.

Re: Rob and Joost E12 528 type 1 ----> 535i

Posted: Fri Dec 16, 2016 11:28 am
by Yoozt
Thanks Jeroen, we'll see if we change the stick.

One question, We've been looking into the wiring and I found some info about conversion from E12->E28 and E28->E34.

Is there a clear schedule for conversion

from:

type 1 E12 carb (M30B28) (no electrical fuel pomp)

to:

E34 535i (M30B35) (electrical fuel pomp)

thanks!

Re: Rob and Joost E12 528 type 1 ----> 535i

Posted: Fri Dec 16, 2016 1:41 pm
by RobK
Almost bought a closed 3.07 differatial but today was our lucky day and we found and bought our Christmas present a LSD 3.07 with oilpump in mint condition!!
:boogie :boogie :crazy :cheers



Image

Re: Rob and Joost E12 528 type 1 ----> 535i

Posted: Fri Dec 16, 2016 2:19 pm
by Peter V.
Nice.

Re: Rob and Joost E12 528 type 1 ----> 535i

Posted: Fri Dec 16, 2016 6:53 pm
by Jeroen
Nice indeed! Just don't blame me for everything hahaha

Re: Rob and Joost E12 528 type 1 ----> 535i

Posted: Fri Dec 16, 2016 6:55 pm
by 323baur
The best (neccessary) option you can buy!

Re: Rob and Joost E12 528 type 1 ----> 535i

Posted: Fri Dec 16, 2016 7:15 pm
by RobK
Yes Ite you told me :thumbsup ... But the prices on kleinanzeigen were over 1250,-
But this guy sold his old e9 stuff and asked a normal price...
It's almost a m535i only with better looks :loll

Re: Rob and Joost E12 528 type 1 ----> 535i

Posted: Fri Dec 16, 2016 8:00 pm
by 323baur
Hahaha, youre right.
I still do not know if I will put the stickers on it.

Re: Rob and Joost E12 528 type 1 ----> 535i

Posted: Fri Dec 16, 2016 8:10 pm
by bmw e12 e21
Don't put the stickers on it, looks horrible!

Re: Rob and Joost E12 528 type 1 ----> 535i

Posted: Fri Dec 16, 2016 8:43 pm
by RobK
I agree no stickers just keep it clean!

Re: Rob and Joost E12 528 type 1 ----> 535i

Posted: Fri Dec 16, 2016 8:45 pm
by RobK
How is your m535i project.. allready painted?

Re: Rob and Joost E12 528 type 1 ----> 535i

Posted: Fri Dec 16, 2016 9:08 pm
by 323baur
I really dont know, but I will visit Jeremy tomorrow.

Re: Rob and Joost E12 528 type 1 ----> 535i

Posted: Fri Dec 16, 2016 9:26 pm
by bmw e12 e21
323baur wrote:I really dont know, but I will visit Jeremy tomorrow.
Pics please!! :mrgreen:

Re: Rob and Joost E12 528 type 1 ----> 535i

Posted: Sun Mar 26, 2017 10:46 am
by Yoozt
After a brake (always too long) we finally made some progress.

We managed to make/fit all the hoses for the cooling.

But we found out that we could not fit the Brake servo unit while the motor was allready in...
Originally It's a type one E12 with carbs, so the brake servo is mounted 20 cm or so from the firewall.

We had to take some of the hoses of and lift the engine, luckily we could fit it without taking the whole engine out, but..

it hit the intake manifold (see arrow)

Image

so.. we started working on it.

we hit it with a hammer, not too much, but just enough to give it some space.
Image

but 2 mm is not enough we think:
Image

so we grinded a bit from the intake manifold:
Image

but still it wasnt enough, so we also drilled the holes of the bracket bigger, so we could shift the brake servo a bit to the left, now we think its enough:
Image
Image

so we fitted the hoses again + the brake lines. Now we start with the electrical stuff.

We want to use the old connector of the fusebox to the wiring of the B35.
What we found out:

Pin
1 - Black/yellow: starter solenoid voltage
2 - Green/yellow: ignition voltage fuse 1, to combo
3 - Blue: Charge warning light
4 - Green: Ignition voltage
5 - Black Coil to tagometer
6 - Brown/white Temp gauge sensor
7 - Brown/green Oil pressure switch
8 - Green/violet Input power combo relay, fused

the blue cable of the original wires of the M30B28 is connected to a voltage regulator:
Image
Image

Do we need to use it with the new setup, or can we skip it?
If we need to use it, how do we connect the other cables?

other question:
The original motor did not have an electronic fuel pump so we need to install one. We want to use the relais of the B35 harnas:

(photo other forum)
Image

The system main relais and the fuelpump relais are both connected to the wires, seems logical to keep using them.

Which wires do we need to connect to the fuelpump?
Image

Before we mount the fuelpump + and connect all the wires to the fusebox we are thinking of making a test setup to see if the engine works good.
What is the easiest way to make such a setup?

- we connected all the cooling hoses, so we can fill it up with coolant.
- oil is in the engine
- we've connected the wires to the engine, ignition coil, alternator, startermotor and ECU are connected.
- still need to put in the relais of the main system, how do we know we have the correct relais?
- we're still busy with the fuel return line, so we want to use hoses that go in and out of a jerrycan with petrol
- can we connect the fuelpump directly to the battery?
- when we connect the startermotor to the battery, the engine will turn, should it start as well, or are we forgetting something?

sorry, but we are real noobs with electronics, thanks in advance.