Eggenbeefburger Grp2 replica

[e21-Mark]

As there are a few people who use (or have used) their e21's in competition on the forum, I figured it might be helpful to those of us just starting out, if there was a thread where questions that are more pertinent to track use could be asked and answered?

Bodyshell.

I am at the point where I have a non-sunroof shell that has been stripped of all the sound deadening material, seam welded and a welded cage fitted c/w door bars & twin diagonals. It also has poly windows and fiberglass bonnet, boot & wings. I have also removed the boot floor and rear bulkhead, which was replaced with sheet aluminium. What else can be done to lighten the shell, other than chopping out the door internals?

Should the cage be tied into the front and rear suspension turrets? Should I use gussets between A & B pillars and cage?

Suspension

I am running GAZ golds & adjustable front top mounts, combined with front and rear strut braces. In the past I have used 600lb front springs and 275lb rears but still suffer understeer on some faster corners. (in particular Clearways at Brands Hatch where I was destroying front n/side tyres) What is a good baseline geo to start with? What are the benefits / negatives between running with 15'' rims over 13'' and vice versa?

Seat mounting


I would like to mount my seat as low as possible but obviously an e21 floor isn't just flat. Is the easiest / best way to weld a pair of bars between the inner sill and transmission tunnel and bolt the seat to that? Can I alter the angle of the steering column to bring the steering wheel a little lower?

I think that's enough for now. I'm sure there will be other questions as things progress.

If anyone else, who has a competition e21, can post phots from their builds it would be good to see them please.

[Jason_323i]

Shell

My cage is a copy of the m3 dtm pick points, with the a & b post gussets

http://www.customcages.co.uk/Rollcage/L ... Multipoint

Also the front subframe is modified so the pivots are about 30-40 higher than stock to give a better roll center with the lowered ride height, also modified to run tension struts

Rear subframe is rasied solid to the floor.

Suspension,

I would run tender springs, 15's are cheaper and have stiffer side walls. Understeer many thugs including driver.

Seats

I would take stock seat mounts and notch them so the front and rear sit on the flat bit of the floor, easy to drop the column I just rewlded mine to the dash bar.

[drjim]

Weight - Once you lose the brake booster, bonnet/boot with the torsion bars and all the sound insulation stuff you are mostly there. I gave up stripping the underseal off the slug as it was so well stuck on. Best thing is going on a diet if you are chunky like me!

Suspension - LEDA coilovers off an ex Kumho 323i Geoff Cooks car as I recall. No idea what the springs are, just put them back on after the rebuild!

Seats - I had the seat bolted directly to the floor, cut the original mounting bits out and welded some thick steel on from underneath to be blue book compliant. MOT now requires sliders so I have fitted some sliders but using minimum thickness of spacer to get them flat, bottom of the seat almost hits lumpy bits of floor but mounts in lower bits.

I'm feeling faster by 10kg or so at the moment, much cheaper to lose weight off yourself than the car!

[Jason_323i]

Seats should not be an issue for the mot, there is clause somewhere in the hand book.

[drjim]

My understanding is you have to have sliders to get MOT.

Hamish also told me I needed to be nearer to the wheel so as I was moving the mounts I decided to fit sliders. Another benefit is that Nick can finally have a drive of the slug in safety - tried a few years ago at Oulton but realised that although he could reach the brake pedal he couldn't press it enough to slow the car down, leading to a swift seat swap!

[e21-Mark]

Shell has been stripped of all the sound-deadening and made a start on chopping out the wheelarches. The rears are only 8x15 but will be running a 225/50 tyre and spacers, although might go for 16's eventually.

I was going to use some fibreglass front wings, but because need some strength to hang the wheelarches, I opted for steel.





Finally managed to find a race seat shell that fits me! (well almost anyway) Because I broke my pelvis and back already I really want a good fitting seat, that offers as much support as possible. What I plan to do is actually increase the width of the seat by 50mm and make a custom inner padding, using 2 part polyurathane expanding foam, before finally I'll have the finished seat flocked. I just need to chop out the factory seat mounts and then I can mount the finished seat as low as possible.



Mirrors & gauge panel.





Tanks are out and opted for side exit exhaust through the nearside sill, copied from Eggenberger car.



On the hunt for an aftermarket rev counter if anyone has one?

[Jason_323i]

I also using 2 pack for the front seats of the caterham, good link here

http://racinggenesis.wordpress.com/2012 ... race-seat/

Not sure I would get them flocked just use fabric

[e21-Mark]

Thanks for that Jason. I don't know why I didn't do it before really? We did them when I worked in Formula Opel.

Caterham??

[TopCat]

Hi Mark
Surprised you have understeer at Clearways- have you tried getting the back out with more boot in?- I would be inclined to soften the front and/or stiffen the back and bring more neg camber at the front to cure same.

[TopCat]

is this the ultimate set-up?

http://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac---e ... p2170.aspx

[e21-Mark]

It looks pretty trick but way out of my budget.

My front nearside tyre was shredded and the understeer was pretty severe. Unfortunately I didn't have enough time to start changing the settings but I plan to do more to develop the new car. I've got uprated ARB's and will be running wider rubber also.

Anyway, a few gratuitous race car pics.

[TopCat]

S
On the hunt for an aftermarket rev counter if anyone has one?

I have a little one you can have?
also have a spare Autometer vg quality Amp guage in silver surround

[fraser]

Where can I buy a wide arch and splitter kit in the style of car numbers 309 and 113, know i have seen them for sale somewhere but now racking my brain and can't think where! I'm toying with the idea of a road race stly car, but will be more of an aesthetics thing than a full blown track car.

[e21-Mark]

PM'd you re arches. Only problem with running that spoiler on the street is the lack of clearance. It''ll be fine on track but not over speed humps & level crossings.

[fraser]

What can I get in the way of reasonably cheap but suitably wide wheels for it? Can't afford bbs splits or anything like that, dont know what width you'd need to reasonably fill group 2 arches, 9" or 10"?